# Fabric Care Guide | Launderwise --- # Fabric Care Guide Choose the material your garment is made of to see what it can and cannot take — each line traced to the manufacturer or standards body that states it. Your garment's own care label always wins. [← All launderwise tools](/tools/index.md) **The care label on your garment always wins.** These are the fibre-level rules the manufacturers and standards bodies publish; an individual garment can be finished, blended or dyed in a way that changes them, and a crossed-out symbol is binding whatever this page says. Not sure what a symbol means? [Decode your care label](/tools/care-symbol-decoder/index.md). ## How to look up your fabric The composition label and the care label are two different labels. This tool reads from the first; the second always has the last word. 1. 1 Find the composition label It is a separate label from the care symbols, and it lists the fibres the garment is made of by percentage. 2. 2 Do not just take the biggest number The care label already reflects the whole fibre mix, so it is what you follow. A small share of a fragile fibre can be the one that sets the limit — elastane is usually a minor percentage and is still the component that heat destroys first. 3. 3 Pick that material below Each material has its own card with the care decisions its manufacturer or standards body publishes. 4. 4 Check it against your care label The symbols on the garment override anything here: a crossed-out symbol is a prohibition, and a number in the wash tub is a maximum, not a target. Your fabric ## Every material, explained The full reference the picker draws on — 18 materials, each care decision quoted from the source that states it. ## Viscose / rayon - Washing If you machine wash, do so only inside a wash bag, in cold water, on the slowest spin speed and a gentle cycle; UGA adds a short cycle because of rayon’s reduced wet strength. - Temperature The viscose manufacturer recommends washing in cold water to maintain texture, strength and colour - Tumble dryer No — dry flat or hang - Drying Dry flat or hang in a well-ventilated area, avoid clothes-pegs, and turn the garment inside out when drying in the sun to protect the colour - Ironing Iron viscose only when it is completely dry, at a low temperature setting or with a steamer, inside out to avoid shiny spots; rayon withstands ironing temperatures slightly less than cotton and the binding ceiling is the dot on the garment label. - Bleach Avoid chlorine bleach on viscose: UGA notes it can yellow or weaken resin-treated rayon - What ruins it Do not wring viscose — squeeze the excess water out gently, per the manufacturer — because it loses much of its strength when wet. [Full method for Viscose / rayon →](/blog/how-to-wash-viscose/index.md) ## Linen - Washing Machine wash linen at 30°C on a gentle/delicate program. - Temperature Wash in lukewarm or cold water; hot water can cause linen to shrink. - Tumble dryer a tumble dryer is not always recommended, because excessive heat can alter the quality - Drying Lay linen flat to air-dry, or use a padded hanger to avoid wrinkles - Ironing Iron linen while it is still slightly damp, at a temperature between medium and high, usually around 200°C — and the care-label iron dots still set the ceiling. - What ruins it Avoid heavy wringing, which can cause marked folds and damage the fabric texture [Full method for Linen →](/blog/how-to-wash-linen/index.md) ## Wool - Washing many wool items can be machine washed on a genuine wool cycle when the garment label allows it - Tumble dryer No — dry flat - Drying Wool sweaters should be dried flat unless the care label explicitly permits tumble drying. - Ironing Pressing should be done with a steam, NOT DRY, iron. - Chlorine bleach No (Clorox) - What ruins it Heat, moisture and agitation together can felt wool and make shrinkage effectively irreversible. [Full method for Wool →](/blog/wash-wool-sweater-without-shrinking/index.md) ## Silk - Washing Washable silk should be washed gently in cold water, not wrung, and air-dried away from high heat. - Tumble dryer No — air-dry away from heat - Ironing Fabrics may turn yellow if the iron temperature is too high. Do not use dry heat. - Chlorine bleach No (Clorox) - What ruins it Silk can lose strength or lustre under harsh alkali, heat and rough handling. [Full method for Silk →](/blog/wash-silk-without-ruining-it/index.md) ## Cashmere - Washing Cashmere and wool washes should be enzyme-free, with machine washing only in a mesh bag on a cold low-spin route when allowed. - Temperature cool or lukewarm washing - Drying gentle handling and flat drying - What ruins it Heat, moisture and agitation can make wool and cashmere fibres felt and shrink, and badly felted cashmere cannot be restored. [Full method for Cashmere →](/blog/how-to-wash-cashmere/index.md) ## Spandex / elastane - Washing Skip fabric softener on spandex - Temperature The number inside the wash-tub symbol is the maximum washing temperature in degrees Celsius which must not be exceeded - Tumble dryer Dryer heat permanently kills the stretch (RMIT) - Drying Drip-dry or dryer-dry at low temperature for ten minutes. - Ironing If the label permits ironing, the iron care symbol caps the sole-plate temperature — one dot 120°C, two dots 160°C, three dots 210°C — and a crossed-out iron means do not iron, per GINETEX. - Bleach Chlorine bleach is not safe for spandex - What ruins it heat makes fibres brittle and stretches the elastane components, which is why hot water, the tumble dryer and a hot iron cause permanent loss of recovery [Full method for Spandex / elastane →](/blog/how-to-wash-spandex/index.md) ## Fleece - Washing wash fleece in cold water with a mild detergent and to avoid fabric softeners - Temperature The number inside the wash-tub symbol is the maximum washing temperature, a ceiling not a target - Tumble dryer tumble dry fleece on low or hang dry, and to follow the garment's care instructions - What ruins it Polyester fleece is a thermoplastic fibre, so high heat can distort or damage its surface and finishes [Full method for Fleece →](/blog/how-to-wash-fleece/index.md) ## Cotton - Washing Warm water and friction can increase colour bleeding or dye transfer, so new and bright cotton colours should be sorted. - Tumble dryer Yes — if the tumble symbol allows - Bleach Chlorine bleach belongs only on label-safe whites; oxygen bleach is the safer default for many colourfast items. - What ruins it Cotton can shrink from heat and drying, and dryer heat is a major shrink risk. [Full method for Cotton →](/blog/how-to-wash-cotton/index.md) ## Polyester - Washing Fabric softener and dryer-sheet residue can impair moisture-wicking, odour-control, spandex and DWR performance on technical synthetics. - Tumble dryer (sturdy synthetics — yes if the symbol allows) Use the lower heat for lightweight or shape-fitted pieces - Ironing If pressing is necessary, set iron on a low temperature and use steam. - Bleach (whites) Yes — 'most synthetic whites' are safe (Clorox); test finishes - What ruins it Polyester is a thermoplastic fibre, so high heat can distort or damage its surface and finishes. [Full method for Polyester →](/blog/wash-polyester/index.md) ## Acrylic - Washing Use lukewarm water for washing. - Temperature Hot water may cause yellowing. - Tumble dryer (wovens) wovens may be machine dried on low heat setting - Drying (knits) For knits blot and drip-dry - Ironing Use a low iron temperature and press on the wrong side of the fabric. - What ruins it Melts, if too hot [No acrylic guide yet — the closest published method →](/blog/wash-polyester/index.md) ## Acetate - Washing If washed, garments should be squeezed gently by hand in lukewarm water with mild suds. - Ironing Press while damp, on the wrong side, with the iron at the lowest setting. - Preferred route Dry cleaning is preferred - What ruins it Melts at low heat [No acetate guide yet — the closest published method →](/blog/how-to-wash-viscose/index.md) ## Ramie - Washing Wet cleaning (washing) might cause pilling and fuzzing due to, low abrasion resistance. - Storage Store flat or rolled without creases. - Preferred route Dry cleaning preserves color. - What ruins it Brittle, weakens with repeated creasing in same place. [No ramie guide yet — the closest published method →](/blog/how-to-wash-linen/index.md) ## Olefin / polypropylene - Stains (carpets & upholstery) Stains on olefin carpets, rugs, and upholstery usually blot away. - Tumble dryer Caution: Avoid commercial gas dryers. - Ironing Never iron 100% olefin fabrics. - What ruins it Melts at relatively low temperatures [No olefin / polypropylene guide yet — the closest published method →](/blog/wash-polyester/index.md) ## Modacrylic - Washing Oil and grease stains need spot treatment before laundering. - Ironing Generally, fabrics containing modacrylics cannot be pressed. - Preferred route drycleaning or fur cleaning is recommended - What ruins it Extremely heat sensitive. [No modacrylic guide yet — the closest published method →](/blog/wash-polyester/index.md) ## Down - Washing You can use a standard non-biological soap, but for extra benefits, we recommend using a technical down-specific detergent. - Temperature Wash your down jacket on a cool setting and a long, gentle cycle. - Tumble dryer Immediately tumble dry your down jacket on a mid to low heat setting. - Restoring loft Every 20-30 minutes during the drying process, remove the down jacket from the dryer, give it a gentle shake and firmly pat the baffles. - What ruins it Standard dry cleaning can reduce down loft or strip down oils [Full method for Down →](/blog/wash-down-jacket/index.md) ## Denim - Washing Turn your denim inside out before washing - Temperature Use cold water to prevent shrinking and fading - Tumble dryer Skip the dryer whenever possible - Drying Hang your denim or lay it flat to air dry - What ruins it New denim—especially darker washes—may release dye during the first wash, which can transfer to lighter items [Full method for Denim →](/blog/wash-jeans-without-fading/index.md) ## Mohair - Washing Soak in tepid water using mild detergent recommended for washing wool (like Woolite), or even hair shampoo. - Temperature Important: Temperature must be no higher than 30 ° - Tumble dryer Do not tumble dry. - Drying Hang or lay flat to dry (mohair dries quite quickly) - Chlorine bleach No (Clorox) [No mohair guide yet — the closest published method →](/blog/wash-wool-sweater-without-shrinking/index.md) ## Nylon - Washing Water-borne stains wash out easily, but oil and grease stains need pre-treatment with a detergent solution or laundry pre-wash. - Tumble dryer (sturdy synthetics) Yes — if the symbol allows - Bleach Use a dry oxygen bleach for best results. - What ruins it Melts and fuses in presence of heat [No nylon guide yet — the closest published method →](/blog/wash-polyester/index.md) ## Where these rules come from Every line on every card is quoted word-for-word — never reworded — from one of three places. Most come from a fact-checked claim in our own guide to that fabric, and each of those claims cites its source with a link and the date we checked it: the fibre manufacturer, a standards body such as GINETEX/ISO 3758, a textile authority, or the regulator. Some are rows of our published fibre references for [tumble drying](/blog/what-fabrics-can-you-tumble-dry/index.md) and [bleaching](/blog/what-fabrics-can-you-bleach/index.md), each row naming the publisher behind it. And where a fabric has no guide of its own yet, the lines are quoted straight from the primary publisher — a university textile extension, or the fibre's maker — recorded with its URL and the date we last checked it. A build check rejects this page if any line has been reworded rather than quoted, if a reference row names no publisher, or if a quoted source has no URL and date. Where a rule only holds for part of a fabric — whites only, chlorine only, sturdy synthetics only — the heading above the line says so rather than quietly widening it. And where our sources say nothing specific, the card simply has fewer lines instead of repeating “check the label” to look complete. What this tool deliberately does not do is restate the method. When the decision needs steps — how to actually hand wash the thing, how to block it back into shape — the card links to the full guide instead of summarizing it badly.